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Royal Caribbean's first Cuba foray an emotional journey

(Photos: Anne Kalosh)
From top left, clockwise: Alexander Jaime on deck as Empress sails to his ancestral home, Havana's El Capitolio, a classic American car, Empress officers celebrate their inaugural arrival at Terminal Sierra Maestra
A Cuban flag flew from the mast and passengers lined the rails as Empress of the Seas approached Havana Harbor at sunrise Sunday. For many on Royal Caribbean International's inaugural Cuba visit, it was much more than a pleasure cruise.

Memories, emotions, hopes and dreams played into the trip.

Mary Brown of Bethalto, Illinois, was on a sentimental journey back to Havana where, as a 7-year-old, she'd vacationed with her parents in 1955. The retired teacher cradled a scrapbook of mementos from that family trip, including the $11 plane ticket from Key West and the $2.50 Cuba visa.

'It's overwhelming,' she said, scanning the waterfront as Empress of the Seas neared Havana's Terminal Sierra Maestra. 'My mom and dad are both gone. I know they'd be tickled to death if they knew I was here.'

Alexander Jaime wore a Cuban flag shirt. 'This is the motherland. I'm so excited. All my ancestors are from here,' said the Miami dancer who teaches salsa classes on board. He was hoping to meet his mother's relatives.

Royal Caribbean's Celia de la Llama, the daughter of Cuban exiles, was shepherding media covering this historic voyage and would be on the lookout for family landmarks during her first visit to the island. Her mother hasn't been back since she left in 1960 at age 14.

'There's a lot of hesitation in my parents' generation to go back to Cuba. They are in exile,' de la Llama said.

Andy Gómez, a Cuban-born, retired University of Miami professor, political analyst and consultant who worked with the Brookings Institution to help develop the Obama administration's Cuba policy, was aboard Empress as a lecturer.

The Cuban-American singer Gloria Estefan had christened the ship (as Nordic Empress in 1990), and her portrait hangs in the atrium. Gómez said Estefan 'told me she's not going to Cuba until it changes but, interestingly, her boat and her photo are going,' he quipped.

When Empress pulled alongside, a ceremony marked its maiden arrival, with Angel Díaz Albertini, gm, Aries Transportes, the Cuban company that oversees cruise operations, and Mark Tamis, svp hotel operations, Royal Caribbean, snipping a red ribbon as the first passengers streamed across the gangway.

Other company officials on hand included Empress Capt. Carl Graucob; Roberta Jacoby, md global tour operations, Royal Caribbean Cruises Ltd.; and, from Royal Caribbean International, Greg Purdy, svp marine operations, and Raimund Gschaider, associate vp hotel operations.

Passengers fanned out for adventures and insights. They explored Revolution Square, the sprawling Christopher Columbus Cemetery with its mausoleums of noted Cubans, and Fusterland's electic artworks. They pondered the giant cannons, trenches and bunkers at Hotel Nacional de Cuba. Many strolled Old Havana, ducking into Hemingway haunts El Floridita, the cradle of the daiquiri, and Hotel Ambos Mundos, where he wrote 'For Whom the Bell Tolls.'

Some heard live music, made new friends and bought paintings, Havana Club rum, Cuban cigars and other souvenirs. Others toured in classic American cars.

On her excursion, Royal Caribbean's de la Llama made several family discoveries. In the 56-hectare Christopher Columbus Cemetery she easily spotted the elegant mausoleum of her great-great-grandfather Frank Steinhart, who left Chicago to fight with Teddy Roosevelt's Rough Riders in Cuba, then stayed as ambassador and started a railroad. His farm was Happy Hollow, next door to Hemingway's Finca La Vigía.

De la Llama also glimpsed the once-swanky Havana Yacht Club, which her mother frequented as a girl, and El Hotel Nacional, where her grandparents sometimes dined.

'Being able to go to Cuba, even if it's just a taste of Cuba, is very special to be able to see your roots,' she said.

Now that de la Llama visited and shared pictures and stories, her mother is eager to return after nearly six decades. 'Being able to go with Royal Caribbean on a cruise ship and experiencing the destination without committing to a hotel and air makes it easier,' de la Llama said. 'She feels she can go because of the safety of the ship.'

After her day in Havana, Mary Brown from Illinois described her visit as 'very emotional. I cried.'

Sunday evening as Empress of the Seas sailed, passengers cheered when Capt. Graucob announced: 'Yes, we did it. This was a historic day.'

Royal Caribbean Cruises Ltd.'s Jorge Delgado, vp global business development, who oversaw the Cuba project, told Seatrade Cruise News he was extremely pleased.

'The process in Cuba has been strategic, clear and well-organized,' he said. The Cubans are 'eager to learn our industry.'

With Sunday's call, a '24-month process comes to an end, allowing us to conclude the first step of a long journey,' Delgado said. 'Hopefully it will be sustainable for us both.'

'It was a great partnership today,' Gschaider added. 'It sets the stage for us. We're very excited about coming here.'

For Tamis, it was a 'big project and a fun team effort' to get Empress ready for Cuba cruises. He thinks its Latin lounge Boleros is the best of the fleet. It came to life with salsa dancing and Spanish classes, daiquiri-making lessons and live music.

The bar is decorated in Cuban tiles and the large pictures of Havana came out of Royal Caribbean president and ceo Michael Bayley meeting a photographer during a planning visit to the island. Boleros also has a corner for dominoes, a case of pastelitos and a café brewing Cuban-style coffees.

The dining room and bars added dishes like ropa vieja and cocktails like coconut mojitos. Gómez's lectures on Cuban daily life, culture and history were standing-room-only in the big main lounge.

Tamis is amazed how excited the crew are about Cuba. 'They're so well-traveled,' he said. 'They're very excited to see something new.' Even though Empress is the fleet's smallest, oldest ship, there's a wait-list to work on board.

'From a nautical and safety side, everything met our expectations. We were extremely pleased,' Purdy said of the Havana call. 'The gangway worked well. The authorities couldn't be more cooperative. The pilots were straightforward. We were happy.'

Empress berthed on the south, shallower side of Terminal Sierra Maestra, with MSC Opera occupying the north berth.

'The south side shows a slightly shallower depth but there was plenty of water so we're comfortable,' Purdy said. Overall, 'It was great. There were no major issues.'

Touring Havana for the first time, Purdy noticed the large, historic mural of Havana Harbor behind El Floridita's bar. It depicts a tall ship under full sail, passing El Morro fortress.

'The picture was the exact thing we saw sailing in,' Purdy said, noting that today most ports have man-made channels. 'Havana is a natural harbor. People have been going in that way for hundreds of years.'